We are always being
asked for advice on refurbishing alloy wheels. Since it's not really
our core business, I have trawled the web to see what the “experts”
are saying.
Just a little warning
though, wheel refurbishment isn't an easy task; it is time consuming
and requires a lot of patience. Do NOT dive straight in; if you are
unsure seek PROFESSIONAL help.
Before starting, the general advice is to get someone to remove the tyres; it makes things much easier, and allows you to clean the entire wheel. This is not absolutely necessary but certainly makes life easier. All products used can be purchased from stores such as Halfords
Here’s a list of things you will need for the preparation stages:
Bucket and a sponge
Detergent (washing up liquid will do)
Wet and dry paper
File
Filler
Spray filler
Flat head screw driver
Thinners
Cloths (Microfibre preferably)
Preparation
The preparation of the
job is undoubtedly the hardest and most critical stage, good
preparation will ensure a good final result, so take your time.
Step 1: Cleaning
The first thing to do is ensure the wheel is as clean as possible. To do this simply use warm water with washing up liquid. It is easiest if the tyre has been removed as you will be able to clean the inside of the wheel. A screwdriver can be used to prise them off, then use thinners to get rid of any sticky residue. (If you do this however the wheel will have to be re-balanced before fitting back on the car) Don’t forget your centre caps, some cars have small caps with an aluminium backed emblem sticker, this can be prised out with a screw driver.
Step 1: Cleaning
The first thing to do is ensure the wheel is as clean as possible. To do this simply use warm water with washing up liquid. It is easiest if the tyre has been removed as you will be able to clean the inside of the wheel. A screwdriver can be used to prise them off, then use thinners to get rid of any sticky residue. (If you do this however the wheel will have to be re-balanced before fitting back on the car) Don’t forget your centre caps, some cars have small caps with an aluminium backed emblem sticker, this can be prised out with a screw driver.
Step 2: Filing
You may or may not need to do this step. For heavy curbing it is likely that you will, while light curbing may only have scratched the paint. If you do have major damage, take a file and lightly file the curbing until it is flat (feels smooth, no major ups and downs). You only need to use light pressure, don’t try and completely remove the curbing, or this will alter the shape of the wheel, remember the filler will fill in the deep marks.
Step 3: Sanding
To ensure the paint sticks you will have to abrade the entire face of the wheel. Basically you want to achieve a matte finish, it is recommended to use 400 grit sand paper for this part, with plenty of water and detergent to prevent the paper from clogging up (use 600 if you feel it is too aggressive). If your wheels are corroding under the paint causing bubble patches, it is advisable to sand these sections back to bare metal; you may want to use a rougher paper for this. Spend a lot of time on the rim area as this will be the worst affected. If you choose to do the insides as well, don’t forget to sand here also, if the insides are rarely cleaned they are likely to be very dirty.
You may or may not need to do this step. For heavy curbing it is likely that you will, while light curbing may only have scratched the paint. If you do have major damage, take a file and lightly file the curbing until it is flat (feels smooth, no major ups and downs). You only need to use light pressure, don’t try and completely remove the curbing, or this will alter the shape of the wheel, remember the filler will fill in the deep marks.
Step 3: Sanding
To ensure the paint sticks you will have to abrade the entire face of the wheel. Basically you want to achieve a matte finish, it is recommended to use 400 grit sand paper for this part, with plenty of water and detergent to prevent the paper from clogging up (use 600 if you feel it is too aggressive). If your wheels are corroding under the paint causing bubble patches, it is advisable to sand these sections back to bare metal; you may want to use a rougher paper for this. Spend a lot of time on the rim area as this will be the worst affected. If you choose to do the insides as well, don’t forget to sand here also, if the insides are rarely cleaned they are likely to be very dirty.
Step 4: Filler
Before filling, make sure the wheel is clean; also make sure the curbing marks are free from black grime and dirt etc., sand the dirt out if necessary. Clean the whole wheel with warm water and washing up liquid, after this rinse and dry thoroughly with a microfibre cloth. When the wheel is completely dry you can then start filling the curb marks.
Before filling, make sure the wheel is clean; also make sure the curbing marks are free from black grime and dirt etc., sand the dirt out if necessary. Clean the whole wheel with warm water and washing up liquid, after this rinse and dry thoroughly with a microfibre cloth. When the wheel is completely dry you can then start filling the curb marks.
Step 5: Sanding
Once the filler is totally dry you should sand it down. You are aiming to sand the filler back to match the shape of the rim. It is recommended to use 400 grit again using plenty of water, you may want to use a rougher paper at first, but be careful. Take you time here; run you thumb over the area regularly until it feels flat, (as if the damage was never there). Don’t worry if you have used too little filler or accidentally sanded too much, just repeat from step 4.
Once the filler is totally dry you should sand it down. You are aiming to sand the filler back to match the shape of the rim. It is recommended to use 400 grit again using plenty of water, you may want to use a rougher paper at first, but be careful. Take you time here; run you thumb over the area regularly until it feels flat, (as if the damage was never there). Don’t worry if you have used too little filler or accidentally sanded too much, just repeat from step 4.
Step 6: Spray Filler
Before spray filling, make sure the wheel is clean. You can clean the whole wheel with warm water and detergent again, and then rinse and dry thoroughly with a microfiber cloth. Once the wheel is totally dry you can start spraying the spray filler. The aim here is to fill the small imperfections left from sanding the filler so there’s no need to do the whole wheel. Follow the instructions on the can that you have chosen to use. Once you have put on the final coat, the rim should look all one colour, you will soon see if there are any imperfections or deep scratches left. If the imperfections are still visible then you may have to revert back to step 4, alternatively if they are minor they may sand out.
Step 7: Sanding
Before you start to sand let the spray filler dry for at least 24hrs. The aim here is to sand the spray filler flat, so there are no pit holes or scratches left. This basically means sanding back all the spray filler in some areas. Try and do this evenly, (i.e. don’t sand in one place as it will create a low spot and this will show up in the paint). A good way to check your progress is to dry the area and check for the remaining low spots. If you need more spray filler, just repeat from step 6, it may seem tedious but the outcome fully depends on good prep work, painting over imperfections will be much more visible than they are now.
Before spray filling, make sure the wheel is clean. You can clean the whole wheel with warm water and detergent again, and then rinse and dry thoroughly with a microfiber cloth. Once the wheel is totally dry you can start spraying the spray filler. The aim here is to fill the small imperfections left from sanding the filler so there’s no need to do the whole wheel. Follow the instructions on the can that you have chosen to use. Once you have put on the final coat, the rim should look all one colour, you will soon see if there are any imperfections or deep scratches left. If the imperfections are still visible then you may have to revert back to step 4, alternatively if they are minor they may sand out.
Step 7: Sanding
Before you start to sand let the spray filler dry for at least 24hrs. The aim here is to sand the spray filler flat, so there are no pit holes or scratches left. This basically means sanding back all the spray filler in some areas. Try and do this evenly, (i.e. don’t sand in one place as it will create a low spot and this will show up in the paint). A good way to check your progress is to dry the area and check for the remaining low spots. If you need more spray filler, just repeat from step 6, it may seem tedious but the outcome fully depends on good prep work, painting over imperfections will be much more visible than they are now.
Painting
Here's a list of things you will need for the painting stages:
Grey primer
Your choice of colour coat paint
Clear Lacquer
Thinners
Gloves
Mask
Bucket and a sponge
Detergent
Wet and dry paper (800 grit recommended)
Hair dryer
Step 8: Priming
Before spraying the primer ensure the wheel is clean and thoroughly dried. Once the wheel is completely dry, you can start spraying the primer. Follow the instructions on the can trying to get even coverage, especially in the hard to get places.
Step 9: Sanding
Before sanding allow at least 24hrs for the paint to dry. The aim here is to achieve a consistently smooth base to paint over. For this it is recommended that you use 800 grit with plenty of water, its important that the whole wheel is sanded flat, any rough parts will show up in the colour coat, especially if it is metallic. Sand just enough to ensure the surface feels smooth, do your best to get in the tight awkward areas but bear in mind the paint will be thinnest here, be very careful not to burn through the paint, this will also show through the colour coat.
Before sanding allow at least 24hrs for the paint to dry. The aim here is to achieve a consistently smooth base to paint over. For this it is recommended that you use 800 grit with plenty of water, its important that the whole wheel is sanded flat, any rough parts will show up in the colour coat, especially if it is metallic. Sand just enough to ensure the surface feels smooth, do your best to get in the tight awkward areas but bear in mind the paint will be thinnest here, be very careful not to burn through the paint, this will also show through the colour coat.
Step 10: Colour coat
Before spraying the colour coat, ensure the wheel is clean and dry. Once the wheel is completely dry, you can start spraying the colour coat. Follow the instructions on the product you are using. Spray the inside of the alloy first and then do the face, like before don’t forget to spray the outer most edge of the rim, also try and get even coverage, especially in the hard to get places. Do not try and make the coats glossy, a matte finish is what you want to achieve here. Once you have sprayed your last coat, make sure the entire wheel looks the same colour, and if it’s not, just keep adding light coats until it is.
Before spraying the colour coat, ensure the wheel is clean and dry. Once the wheel is completely dry, you can start spraying the colour coat. Follow the instructions on the product you are using. Spray the inside of the alloy first and then do the face, like before don’t forget to spray the outer most edge of the rim, also try and get even coverage, especially in the hard to get places. Do not try and make the coats glossy, a matte finish is what you want to achieve here. Once you have sprayed your last coat, make sure the entire wheel looks the same colour, and if it’s not, just keep adding light coats until it is.
Step 11: Clear Lacquer
Before spraying lacquer allow at least 24hrs for the paint to dry. Do not sand the colour coat, if you do it will reduce the metallic sparkle of the paint, also don’t wash the wheel for this stage, just make sure there is no dust on the surface, you can use a hair dryer to blow any dust off before spraying (don’t touch the wheel as it may put oil onto the surface). Now you can start spraying the lacquer. Follow the instructions on the can. Again do not try and make the coats glossy. During this stage it is the worst thing you can do, as 9 times out of 10 the paint will run and ruin the job (if the paint does run, it will drag the colour coat with it, remember the paint will always dry with some orange peel anyway). Spray the inside of the alloy first and then do the face, like before don’t forget to spray the outer most edge of the rim, also try and cover the awkward places as best as you can
Before spraying lacquer allow at least 24hrs for the paint to dry. Do not sand the colour coat, if you do it will reduce the metallic sparkle of the paint, also don’t wash the wheel for this stage, just make sure there is no dust on the surface, you can use a hair dryer to blow any dust off before spraying (don’t touch the wheel as it may put oil onto the surface). Now you can start spraying the lacquer. Follow the instructions on the can. Again do not try and make the coats glossy. During this stage it is the worst thing you can do, as 9 times out of 10 the paint will run and ruin the job (if the paint does run, it will drag the colour coat with it, remember the paint will always dry with some orange peel anyway). Spray the inside of the alloy first and then do the face, like before don’t forget to spray the outer most edge of the rim, also try and cover the awkward places as best as you can
Step 12: Sanding
Before starting the sanding and polishing process, it is advisable to let the paint thoroughly dry for as long as is stated on the paint cans. Once the paint has hardened, you can start to wet sand your wheel. For this it is recommended to use 1500 grit paper, again using plenty of water with detergent. You are aiming to completely remove the orange peel from the lacquer here, be very careful not to burn through the paint, (especially at edges, sides of spokes, anywhere where paint may be thinner). If you have applied 3 coats of lacquer the paint should be thick enough to sand without burning through. When sanding, regularly dry the wheel to see how much paint you are taking off, the aim is to sand the surface until you can no longer see the low points (glossy spots). When you’re finished you should have a totally smooth matte looking finish (for darker colours such as grey and black you may need to repeat the process with a higher grit paper, as scratches may be visible after compounding).
Step 13: Polishing Compound
Before polishing the wheel make sure its clean. Warm water and detergent is all you need to remove any sanding marks. After you have cleaned the wheel ensure you dry thoroughly. It’s up to you what compound you use. Any fine compound or polish will be okay (liquid based with no grit particles). Use a microfibre cloth to work in the compound; you don’t need a lot of pressure, just rub in a circular motion until the compound goes transparent (some may vary, follow the instructions on the bottle). You may or may not need to let the compound dry, depending on what you are using, wipe or buff off with a different clean cloth, you should now notice the paint has a deep gloss to it. Do this until the whole wheel looks shiny, it may take a while, but you will be amazed by the results.
Before starting the sanding and polishing process, it is advisable to let the paint thoroughly dry for as long as is stated on the paint cans. Once the paint has hardened, you can start to wet sand your wheel. For this it is recommended to use 1500 grit paper, again using plenty of water with detergent. You are aiming to completely remove the orange peel from the lacquer here, be very careful not to burn through the paint, (especially at edges, sides of spokes, anywhere where paint may be thinner). If you have applied 3 coats of lacquer the paint should be thick enough to sand without burning through. When sanding, regularly dry the wheel to see how much paint you are taking off, the aim is to sand the surface until you can no longer see the low points (glossy spots). When you’re finished you should have a totally smooth matte looking finish (for darker colours such as grey and black you may need to repeat the process with a higher grit paper, as scratches may be visible after compounding).
Step 13: Polishing Compound
Before polishing the wheel make sure its clean. Warm water and detergent is all you need to remove any sanding marks. After you have cleaned the wheel ensure you dry thoroughly. It’s up to you what compound you use. Any fine compound or polish will be okay (liquid based with no grit particles). Use a microfibre cloth to work in the compound; you don’t need a lot of pressure, just rub in a circular motion until the compound goes transparent (some may vary, follow the instructions on the bottle). You may or may not need to let the compound dry, depending on what you are using, wipe or buff off with a different clean cloth, you should now notice the paint has a deep gloss to it. Do this until the whole wheel looks shiny, it may take a while, but you will be amazed by the results.
Step 14: Waxing
This is the last stage of the refurb; make sure the wheel is free from compound, wash and dry if necessary. This is a simple step that gives the paint some protection and will ensure a better finish for longer. It is up to you what product you use; any car body wax will be suitable. Following the instructions on the bottle, rub onto the surface of the wheel and then buff off, it may or may not increase the glossy finish, the surface will feel slippery smooth after application. If you have bought new centre stickers you can put these on now. After this you are finally finished, step back and admire your handy work.
This is the last stage of the refurb; make sure the wheel is free from compound, wash and dry if necessary. This is a simple step that gives the paint some protection and will ensure a better finish for longer. It is up to you what product you use; any car body wax will be suitable. Following the instructions on the bottle, rub onto the surface of the wheel and then buff off, it may or may not increase the glossy finish, the surface will feel slippery smooth after application. If you have bought new centre stickers you can put these on now. After this you are finally finished, step back and admire your handy work.
If the tyre has been
removed ask the garage to be very careful when putting it back on.
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